5-50 (or 12-40mm.) Gives you a good capture distance, generally 20 m and more to neutralize part of the car speed up to 90Km/h 5-50 mm focal lenses with headlight filter to avoid any glare issues depending on your camera angle and location. ![]() I have tried to summarize other key points in LPR: Something we didn't mention is one major issue could be that the IP camera could remain in color all the time with blurry effects you can imagine if there are any sources of light in the neighborhood even far from the lenses ( street lighting, neon signs.) The other thing to remember is that the more straight-on your camera is to the plate, the less motion blur you'll get, allowing a slower shutter. In your instance, you probably don't need that much DOF, either. the flash itself then "freezes" the image. Of course, if you're darkening the image with a tight aperture, you can use a slower shutter. ![]() This is part of the reason red light cameras use a high-powered strobe - they need to have substantial DOF to get sharp pictures through the width of an intersection, which means a tighter aperture, and less light. Note that, as John indicates, you'll probably need a pretty fast shutter to avoid blurring at upwards of 80km/h, and that means a stronger illuminator.Īlso, the faster the shutter, the wider the aperture you need to compensate, and the wider the aperture, the lower the DOF. ![]() Then you'd add the illumination to create the proper image with that exposure, so you'll get the same picture regardless of ambient light. My thinking is that you'd want to lock your exposure first so that the image is completely or almost-completely dark in all ambient lighting conditions the view will be in - this removes the need to change exposure due to lighting levels, or to have it overexpose in the brightest conditions.
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